Understanding Sewing Patterns

(NB: Post moved from Coral Stars, originally written 08/12/08)

Today, I'm delving into the pattern area. When you first look at one, they seem really confusing - but don't worry, they're fairly easy to understand once you know what they mean!

Note: Super duper long post again, so grab some tea and biscuits before you delve in!

What is a pattern?

For anyone making clothes (or anything else for that matter) you need a pattern. Think of your garment kind of like a jigsaw puzzle. Each piece is 2D part of that jigsaw and when they come together, they form your 3D item.

Patterns, for the average home dressmaker, are usually made of thin paper. They are pinned onto the fabric to ensure that the pieces you cut out of the fabric are the correct size/shape to assemble and create that particular garment.

Modern commercial patterns are available in a range of sizes, which can then be cut to the most appropriate size for you; whereas vintage patterns usually came in one size per pack, depending on the pattern, age etc. Regardless of what the pattern is, the most important part is to get one which has the correct size to fit you properly. My dressmaking teacher's suggestion was to go by the bust measurement because this is the most difficult area to alter. I have talked about the importance of measurements before, so do read up there.

Pattern Symbols

These are the backbone of understanding patterns - if you know what all the different symbols mean and how to use them, you'll be off off and away! I recommend trying out some commercial patterns first, just so you gain more of an understanding of how a garment comes together.

Cutting line

This is usually a bold line on the pattern or, if it is a multi-sized pattern, there will be varying types of dashes for the various sizes. The cutting lines will be marked in some way - most likely with a scissors symbol to show you where to cut out your pattern.

Usage: Using a pair of PAPER scissors, cut out the size of pattern you need. You'll need to ensure that you cut out all the pattern pieces you need for your chosen garment. Once placed on the fabric, this is the line you follow again to cut out the fabric.

Alteration lines

Usually a double line on the pattern which allows you to lengthen or shorten the pattern as you need. In both instances, I suggest consulting the instruction booklet enclosed because it gives you directions of how to do it.

Usage: To lengthen, you need to cut along the alteration line, then get some newspaper (or similar) and basically add it in. To shorten, usually I just pin the pattern up so that it shortens without removing the extra in case I decide to make it again to that length.

Straight grain

One of the vital elements of any pattern. This line basically ensures that the fabric 'sits' or 'hangs' the correct way when you cut it out and eventually assemble the garment. It can be identified as a straight line with an arrowhead on each end. The line must lie parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. In bog standard terms, the selvedge is the edge (or edges) of the fabric which will not fray. It is usually marked with a line of coloured thread, a slightly different weave or a line of dots all the way along.

Usage: The most common method is to match up the selvedges of the fabric first (thus folding it in half) and, lying it flat along a surface, place the pattern pieces onto it. Then, take a pin and put it through one of the arrowheads on the line. Measure from that pin all the way to the selvedge. Following that, measure from the other arrowhead to the selvedge again making sure that it is the same distance. Pin it down. I normally double or triple check both measurements just to make sure it is right!

Place on fold line

Another vital component in ensuring that the fabric hangs correctly. It is a straight line which turns inward at both ends and again has an arrow on it. Occasionally the line it points to will be broken indicating that you do not cut along it in the fabric.

Usage: Once the selvedges are together and the fabric folded in half, quite literally place the piece along the folded edge and pin in place. You can then pin the rest of the piece down. And remember, when you're cutting it out, don't cut along the folded edge!

Notches

These are the guiding lights which help you match up all your jigsaw pieces correctly! They are shown as little triangles or diamonds along the seam edge of your pattern piece and help you match up different pieces of the pattern.

Usage: When cutting out the pattern, cut OUTWARDS at the notches (so you have a mirror image of that triangle on the pattern). I only say this because, when you are a beginner, it is all to easy to forget to cut outwards at notches on the fabric. If in the instance that you do miss one, you can do a tailors tack to mark it's place, but it is just much easier if you cut the fabric outwards in the first place.

Balance marks

The purpose of these marks has always eluded me, but in researching, I discovered that they indicate where you start/stop stitching. They also indicate match up points for things like darts, pleats, buttonholes etc. These are shown as little round dots on the pattern.

Usage: Once the pieces have been cut out of the fabric, keep the paper pattern on it until you need it. Then, the simplest way to transfer the balance markings from the pattern to the fabric is to use tailors tacks (which I will show you how to do in a later post).

Pattern information

This is everything which tells you more about the pattern piece. Including the piece name (e.g. Bodice Back), the cut number (e.g. Cut 2) and errm... that's it I think. The use of these are fairly straight forward - to help you identify which pieces you need when you need them and also how many pieces to cut out.

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This is by no means a complete list of all the symbols, but they are certainly the most common ones. Some patterns include a list of all the symbols and what they mean so do consult that. Over time and exposure to various patterns, you will find it much easier to interpret what they mean.

If you're confused in any way (especially the case as a beginner) ask someone knowledgeable for help. Whether that is your dad, grandma, friend or even a person working in the local fabric shop... someone who knows how to sew will be your best friend whilst you are learning!

Where do I get patterns from?

• Commercial pattern companies such as Simplicity, McCall, Vogue and Butterick all produce different designs of patterns which you can buy for home sewing. Most are available to buy from your local fabric/haberdashery shop or you can in fact buy from the website. There are also the "Built by You" patterns from Built by Wendy which look lovely! Prices of all patterns vary and can be anything from around £3 to £10+, which is quite expensive in my opinion. Sadly, patterns are no longer as cheap as they used to be (though with the recent rise in diy, who knows...) so when looking try and pick something which has several options, just to get more for your money.
• Burda Style - I adore this site because all the patterns are free. Nothing better than free stuff! Anyway, to use this site you basically sign up and then you can download as many patterns as you want. Bear in mind that though they are free, they also require lots of paper to print them out. But still, there are loads of lovely designs and it's all open source (meaning if you alter the patterns, you are allowed to sell the creations on as your own... not important for a beginner, but useful for someone slightly more advanced looking to sell their wares) so definitely worth a look!
• For vintage patterns: try charity shops, car boot sales & other thrifting spots. Also, ebay, etsy... errm... grandma's attic... I'm not sure where else.

Further reading

• How to read a sewing pattern
• Understanding pattern symbols and instructions
• Some great video tutorials on Expert Village which definitely get a big stamp of approval!

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Final tips from me are: remember to look at the measurements; look at the recommended fabrics on the back of the envelope to get an idea of the fabric weight etc; try to see past the picture on the pattern and look for potential in the garment; start with something simple like a skirt, then progress; and most importantly, make something you'll love to wear! Okay, so that is all I can think of that is essential to know. If you have any more questions, please do ask because it is bound to be confusing at first.